For the next couple of months we’ll be zig-zagging back and forth across multiple countries so I’ve decided to be a bit more disciplined and write our blog every Sunday. Sunday’s are very quiet in Europe, shops close and people rest. We’ve decided to adopt this lifestyle too and spend Sunday’s doing not much, aside from writing that is, and the odd domestic duty.
Since our last update we have spent four nights in Strasbourg, three in Basel and the last three in Bern. More than a week I know, but the new weekly blogging starts now.
Strasbourg
Visiting Strasbourg was a last-minute decision. We were originally planning to head straight to Switzerland after Germany, but when discussing our route with my Aunt and Uncle, Uncle George suggested Strasbourg was well worth a visit. We’re glad we took his advice as we loved this elegant and cultured city.
We didn’t know what to expect when we cycled out the campsite gate and off into the city. At first it didn’t look much, but Strasbourg was like opening a present, all of a sudden this postcard perfect scene appeared – the bridges and towers of Ponts Couverts with the Ill River like a mirror beneath. We left the bikes and crossed the Barrage Vauban (Vauban Damn) stopping to admire the view from the roof terrace. We were now in Petit France and had stepped into the pages of a storybook. Around each corner another magical scene appeared; gorgeous medieval houses, window boxes brimming with bright colours, arched walking bridges crossing the river that gurgled past, and under, buildings and through weirs and locks. We were smitten.
The historic centre of Strasbourg is built on the Grand Ile, an island surrounded by the Ill river on one side and a canal on the other. The entire island is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Water plays a big part in Strasbourg, the city has been built around it, over it and in it. We stopped to watch the canal boats go through the lock and decided a canal cruise might be fun. It was well priced so we booked tickets for the last day of our stay.
Being located on the eastern bank of the Rhine very close to the German border, Strasbourg and the Alsace region has bounced back and forth between French and German control over the centuries and as a result the city is influenced by the cultures of both countries, from the traditional German style timber-framed houses, to the food and drink, and even the language. As it was France we thought crepes for lunch would be nice, but they were not on the menu. Every café in Strasbourg serves the Alsatian speciality of flammkuchen. Flammkuchen is like a thin flaky pizza and the classic toppings are onions, crème fraiche and ham. We were introduced to flammkuchen as a German dish when we tried one for the first time in Hachenburg with Margaret, but evidently Alsace claims this speciality as their own, an example of the influences that make Alsace a unique part of France.
The weekend when we arrived happened to be the weekend of European Heritage Days. This is a Europe-wide initiative where every September places of cultural heritage open their doors for free to encourage the people of Europe, especially the young, to experience art, history and culture. We made the most of the free entrance and visited many more places than we would have otherwise.
A highlight was seeing the incredible Astronomical clock in action inside the Notre-Dame Cathedral. This floor-to-ceiling ornate clock is a Renaissance masterpiece and only puts on its display at 12.30pm each day, solar noon. Not only does this clock keep time, it has a mechanical model of the solar system that accurately predicts the positions and motions of the planets, and can calculate when Easter will fall each year and when a Solar or Luna eclipse will happen. It’s an ancestor of the modern computer. Then of course there are the animated figures that everyone watches, spellbound. The performance shows the different stages of life, a child, teenager, an adult and then an old man, who all parade past Death. Higher up, the apostles have their own parade, before Christ. A life-size rooster flaps his wings throughout the parade and crows three times. It’s enthralling to watch this combination of maths, physics, art and religion.
Aside from seeing the Astronomical clock for free we climbed to the top of the Cathedral Tower, visited the three museums in the Palais Rohan – the Museums of Fine Art, Décor and Archaeology – and had the opportunity to see inside the majestic old town hall, the Hotel de Ville, which is normally closed to tourists, all courtesy of the European Heritage Days.
Not only is Strasbourg the capital of the Alsace region but it is also the capital of Europe and is home to Council of Europe, the European Court of Human Rights, the European Ombudsman, and, most famously, the European Parliament, which also holds sessions in Brussels. We spotted the European Parliament building from the top of the Cathedral Tower and wanted to see the building we’d seen on TV so many times up close, so we biked out to the new suburbs of Strasbourg where the political hub of the city is based. The building is huge and looks like it arrived from the future, all shiny, silver and circular. It certainly makes a statement. The flags of all member states fly proudly outside, including, for now, the Union Jack.
The historical centre of Strasbourg is only part of its charm, there are layers to this city. Outside the Grand Ile there are imperialistic buildings from the period of Prussian control, along with some beautiful examples of Art Nouveau from the early 20th century, and then there are the sleek, modern buildings claiming this city as a cosmopolitan capital. It all works, it is elegant and sophisticated.
We finished our stay in Strasbourg with that canal tour we’d booked on the first day. After walking and biking all over the city for three days we’d seen a lot and felt we had a good feel for the place, and with the weather setting in it seemed we’d judged the timing for a final canal boat ride perfectly. It was pleasant enough, the commentary was informative and we had the first-time experience of going up a canal lock, but we were reminded again that these types of tours are not really us. At least it didn’t cost a lot.
Strasbourg was a surprise. Neither of us had considered it as a destination before, and by the end of our stay we felt a bit silly we hadn’t. It’s a true European city.
Basel
We technically didn’t stay in Basel. After Strasbourg we drove 140km south to the Swiss city, but our campsite was in the French town of Huningue, a town in its own right and also the northern suburb of Basel. So, we camped in France beside the Rhine looking over to Weil am Rhine, the German town on the opposite side of the river which is also a suburb of Basel, a Swiss city. It was a win-win as French prices for camping are far less expensive than those in Switzerland.
Only a couple of minutes’ walk from the campsite was the Three Countries Bridge, a pedestrian and cycleway across the Rhine between France, Germany and Switzerland. Within a matter of minutes, we walked in three different countries, not something you can do in New Zealand.
Switzerland is not part of the EU but is part of the Schengen Visa-free area in Europe, so there’s no passport checks at the border but there are sporadic customs checks, and there is police presence on both sides of the border crossing. The Swiss go into Germany and France and take advantage of the much cheaper prices and then claim back their tax at the border. We didn’t know about this and were wondering why people were getting out of their cars at the border and going to a booth to fill out paperwork. Mr Love being the investigator he is rocked up to the Swiss border guard and quizzed him on what was happening. He was only too happy to explain. Like most of the people we have met, his opening sentence was “I don’t speak very much English”, before continuing in language perfectly to us. Later we read a bit more on this and apparently, it’s widely done but not openly spoken about, as you’re seen as not supporting Swiss businesses by shopping abroad.
Straddling the Rhine, Basel is a very picturesque city and is where a lot of the Rhine river cruises start or end. We recognised a few of the ships from when we were in Rudesheim. The Rhine is the reason the city exists, strategically placed to be a key trading centre over the centuries. The city has some beautiful historic buildings, the most striking being the deep red 500-year old Town Hall with its gilded spire. Although the history of the city is very evident, this is a very modern city, and the 25 cranes we counted from one viewpoint indicate it is transforming rapidly. As we cycled into town we passed the huge campus for the pharmaceutical giant Novartis which, along with a number of other big drug companies, are headquartered in Basel.
Switzerland is renowned for being expensive and our budget looked likely to be stretched, especially after investigating campsite prices. To counteract, we stocked up on food at the hypermarket on the border to make sure we could get through without having to do much shopping. After a relaxing few days in Basel and with the van laden with supplies we set off into Switzerland proper.
Bern
Bern was another last-minute decision. I admit, I haven’t done a lot of research into where we will go in Switzerland so our plans are a bit fluid. Having read that Bern, the Swiss capital, is consistently rated as one of the most liveable cities in the world we thought we’d like to see for ourselves. We quickly realised why.
Our campsite was beautiful, right on the Aare river and only a quick walk or bike into town. It was on the more expensive side, costing $62 NZD a night, but the excellent location and facilities made this more digestible. We were also given transport passes for our entire stay which meant free rides on all trams, cable cars and buses. This was great as it included the cable car to the top of the Gurten, Bern’s local mountain. At 860 metres the view from the top was fantastic and the free observation tower extended the view even further, right across to the snow-covered alps. The day we were up the Gurten was clear and crisp and many locals were out walking and picnicking. The recreational area at the top of the mountain is superb, with open grassed areas, gardens, walking paths, a miniature railway, and playground for kids.
The historic centre of Bern, called the Old City, is built on a hill surrounded by the river Aare. The grand Federal Palace that houses the Swiss government has prominent position overlooking the river. There are public areas all around the palace for people to sit and enjoy the surrounds, and no sign of any security. We stopped to play giant chess for a while in the sunshine. Mr Love won in record time.
The elegant Old City is home to Switzerland’s tallest cathedral as well as other churches, bridges and a large collection of Renaissance fountains. The medieval clock tower is a Bern landmark and, with what seems to be fast becoming a theme, we stopped to watch the astronomical clock strike midday, along with a small group of other tourists. Now well into autumn tourist numbers have dropped and we are enjoying sightseeing without the crowds.
The city of Bern has a close relationship with bears. There is a bear on the flag, bear emblems appear on buildings, and statues of bears are scattered around the city. Apparently, the legend is that the duke of the time decided that his new city be named after the first animal hunted there. It was a bear and the name Bern was given to the city. Bears have been kept in Bern since the 1500’s and are still a popular tourist attraction. We were a bit sceptical about a Bear Pit in the middle of a city, but were pleasantly surprised to see the three Bern bears living in a lovely enclosure on the river bank with lots of trees, logs, caves, and pools to swim in. They looked very relaxed and content. Everyone can visit the Bärengraben, or Bear Pit free of charge, it’s just part of the city.
Another part of the city that is for everyone’s enjoyment at no cost is the “urban swimming”, both in beautiful river Aare and the open air public pools next to it. The Aare is a glacial river that starts in the alps and flows very swiftly through the city. There are plenty of signs warning of the risks of changing water levels and hidden debris, however it is set up for swimming with handrails and steps dotted all along the riverbank. The first two days we were in Bern I watched people jumping in and floating down the fast-moving river. It looked like great fun, but the water was so very cold. One foot in the water was enough for Mr Love to decide he was not interested in this sport. But I was set on it, and on the last day the sun was shining and I finally decided to give it a go. Once down the river was not enough, I did it twice and loved it.
While Andrew was watching me swimming from the riverbank he got talking with some locals and was asked where we were heading next. Our idea of heading to Interlaken was met with screwed up noses and Andrew was advised to avoid this tourist trap and try Meiringen, a small town in the mountains, instead. We are always open to suggestions and eagerly take advice from locals, and our trip has been much more rewarding as a result, so we changed plans again and headed off to Meiringen.
