After returning from Saint Petersburg we spent three more nights in Helsinki, giving us two full days to see the city as well as a half day to relax at the campsite. Being a constant tourist can be exhausting, and you still have washing, housework and admin to catch up on, so down time is a must.
The Rastila Campground is located right next to a metro station, with trains every 10 minutes into the city. Helsinki’s public transport is excellent, and the trains and trams are modern and clean. Even better, you can take bikes on the train, which is what we did on our first full day in the city.
Biking around Helsinki is easy, like in most European cities there are designated bike paths, and drivers are considerate of cyclists.
From the Central Station we biked through Esplanade Park to Market Square by the waterfront. From spring to autumn Market Square hosts a popular market selling all sorts of Finnish crafts, art and food. The traditional Finnish fare looked too good to pass by so we ordered a plate of “three fish” and “three meats”. The meats were Moose sausage and Reindeer meatballs cooked two ways, and the fish, vendace (they look like small herrings), salmon, and siika (a freshwater white fish). Served with potatoes and vegetables it was a large lunch, but it was truly delicious and our plates were left bare.
The day was hot and sunny and the sightseeing boats taking tourists and locals from the docks at Market Square out to the many islands in Helsinki Harbour were full. As we ate lunch we watched the queues get longer and longer, and were starting to rethink our idea of visiting Suomenlinna Sea Fortress, one of the main attractions in Helsinki. However, it was the perfect day to experience it, and why risk the weather changing overnight? It pays to look around, we walked to the other end of the pier and found the commuter ferry to Suomenlinna. We didn’t have to wait in line, and for a very reasonable 5 Euro return we were shipped across.
Founded in 1748 on a cluster of islands off the coast of Helsinki, Suomenlinna is now a UNESCO World Heritage site, preserved as a unique example of the military architecture of its era. It is a popular destination for visitors, and on the day we were there flocks of people covered the island, exploring the fort, browsing the galleries of resident artisans, relaxing in cafes, picnicking on the grass, and enjoying the fleeting summer sun. We wandered from one end of the fortress to the other, taking in the history and stories of this significant landmark.
After a few hours on Suomenlinna we headed back to the mainland. On the way we met some Kiwis who were surprised when we told them they the first we’d met in 6 weeks – I think they thought we were living in a bubble, until we explained we’d come down from the top of Norway, where Kiwis are a rare find.
Back in the city we continued our cycle tour. Along past the Uspenski Cathedral; the red Eastern Orthodox church hard to miss sitting high on a rock with large domes and gold crosses, then up through Senate Square; the oldest part of central Helsinki surrounded by the imposing white Helsinki Cathedral, Government Palace, and Sederholm House, the oldest building of central Helsinki dating from 1757, continuing along the harbour front, and back through the picturesque Kaisaniemi Park to Railway Square and the majestic Museum of Finnish and International Art, before heading back to camp.
The next day it was raining so we left the bikes behind. Having seen a lot of the tourist sights the previous day we decided to wander the retail and restaurant precincts and enjoy the city. We were impressed. Helsinki is upmarket and urbane. It reminded us both of Melbourne, maybe it was the trams and the easy to navigate grid of streets, but much a cleaner and classier version. We browsed through shops and galleries, stopped for coffee, and strolled the streets, admiring the outdoor art and architecture of this under-rated Scandinavian city.
The next day we said goodbye to Scandinavia and caught the ferry across to Tallinn, Estonia.